“Naa yin bunna”

Friday 18 May we leave the ghost campsite for our last tourist almost step on this road trip Queenslanders. Arriving in the city of Hervey Bay, we stop at the company Aussie Trax, is said to be the largest and oldest loueuse 4×4 sur Fraser Island. They actually have an advantage that tipped the choice : they have an office on the island. What used to take the first boat before seven in the morning to be at the opening to eight hours and enjoy as long as possible the day.

Only we could not Fraser Island, in 2015 already we preferred to camp in the Cooloola Recreational Area, which also gave the opportunity to go driving on beaches, the two places belonging to the Great Sandy National Park. But our Bear's only here for a short stay and want to enjoy it ! Inscrite au patrimoine mondial de l’UNESCO, K’Gari, terre des Butchulla est la plus grande île de sable au monde. Ce sera aussi pour lui l’occasion de conduire un 4×4 sur les pistes de terre.

The pack le jour le plus long réservé – $600, il nous faut maintenant trouver un camping pour les deux nuits à venir. Une première adresse infructueuse sans numéro de téléphone, un camping où les hommes trouvent que les cabines sont trop serrées les unes aux autres – c’est qu’ils prendraient l’habitude du luxe depuis que l’on campe moins en tente 😀 – puis finalement la perle cachée : the Sanctuary Lakes Fauna Retreat, installé sur quatre hectares de réserve naturelle, les petits bungalows indépendants donnent tous sur le lac où se promènent canards et tortues souriantes – yes, yes, regardez la photo, ne dirait-on pas qu’elle vous sourit ? Il y a aussi toutes sortes d’oiseaux, dont certains ne sont pas timides et viennent vous piquer vos tranches de pain si vous ne faites pas attention… pas bête, il – sa photo par ici – a quand même attendu que j’ai terminé de tartiner la confiture ! 😮

Comme c’est l’anniversaire de notre Ours, nous l’emmenons manger dans un Fish n’ Grill, qui, s’il ne paye pas de mine, nous régale de ses spécialités fidjiennes – le curry polynésien végétalien était juste succulent. 🙂

The next day, raised to five hours to prepare our picnic, we are an hour later at Rivers Head Terminal where we get our tickets for the ferry which we admire daybreak. Landed on the west coast of the island after less than an hour crossing, we can enjoy the shuttle that goes to the first hotel to drop us at the office of Aussie Trax ... which actually is only a few minutes walk. Here takes place the only downside of the company : a security video that just keeps repeating the instructions on driving 4×4 and the time saved setpoint set decreases. With the administration to set and the last instructions of the responsible, it is only at the stroke of 9:30 that we can finally start and throw us directly on one of the tracks that crisscross the Fraser Island's forest.

First stop at Lake MacKenzie that consists only of raindrops. No streams or underground water source feeds. It can be emptied by evaporation if the weather stays dry then fills again in rainy season. If it does not just disappear into the ground it is because a layer of plant material decaying settled in the lake for thousands of years, retaining water.

Further south is Central Station, former site of a village of about thirty houses and a school, of which only a few sections, where lived the logging 1920 in the late 1950, when logging was permitted on Fraser again. This ancient site was itself built on the ancient land of Wanggoolba Creek, Butchulla reserved for women and childbirth place from which men were excluded.

We arrive on the east coast around noon and we install picnic does not have permission to drive on the beach before 13h, at low tide. Driving at high tide would we spend in seawater, brine that scrap 4×4 appreciates only moderately.

Aussie Trax does not feel that their vehicle ends as the stranded wreck since 1935 because of a cyclone. These are the remains of the SS Maheno, a building used as a hospital ship during World War II. One of the attractions probably the best known of the island and fun for a photographer. I'll spare you the twenty shots and made in've selected only a few - another black and white series is to see on the blog photo some abandoned.

The day is well underway and we go then realize that it is not nearly enough. We have traveled a tiny part of the island and a second day, or third would be required to at least reach the northern tip. Obviously the rental would not have been the same price – $1000 Aussie Trax home for two days and one night - but for an adventure of a time, I think we should really consider (several since the price of 4×4 does not change and it can take up to eight people).

We push still up Pinnacles, nothing to see with those in Western Australia which are limestone. Here is the wind and water that have updated these dunes of sand colored by minerals rich in iron around the clay. A sign that demand respect this place, remember three traditions of the people Butchulla :
– What's good for the Earth comes first.
– If you have lots, you must share.
– Do not take or do not touch anything that does not belong to you.

It is time for us to return to the West to go to the 4×4 around 16:30 and be able to take the ferry 17h. We had the opportunity to stay longer and take the 20h but we do not regret our choice that we can enjoy the sunset aboard sun. It's dark when we landed, the moon and stars at the campsite we raccompagnent.

PS. : Title of the article means “See you later” or “See you later” in the language of Butchulla.

Fraser beautiful ! So obviously we are not only to ride in the dunes of the forest silted. Near the lake (no Pre-du-Lac eh) natural and come out of Central Station we realize firsthand that we do not drove solo, a caravan of a dozen vehicles before us a good 10 km/h (we will have seen larger cap and slower, but still !) Like any exceptional, expect to see the world, whatever the season.

 

I think I made the best of a bear birthday gift could have ever imagined.

I had introduced him to Liquorland, shop at the sign glowing containing only alcohol, but the, Hervey Bay is a Dan Murphy's, which represents the sale of alcohol in a highly industrial level… Nirvana of ethanolisation, Walhalla coma, Champs Elysees beverages gods, beam radius after, wide eyes of our ursidé discovering the existence of so many different beer brands (I must say I was pretty impressed myself), d’autant de bouteilles de bibine, voire des Bourgognes et des Bordeaux (voilà le prix aussi !)

 

Cerise sur le gâteau, une dame préparait la journée mondiale du whisky pour le lendemain, mais nous a quand même fait goûter, dégustation de quelques bon choix en sus !