“The islands are small continents abbreviated.” Bernardin de Saint-Pierre

Monday 4 September we take a southerly direction, along the rugged coastline of the Scottish West. Rain and mist with us giving a ghostly appearance to the Highlands. In this country full of water it is however difficult to find fountains, what is not our surprise to come across an antique in the middle of nowhere, with waters that should rarely be equal purity.

The passing scenery is still wild, shaved hills and plains dotted with rocks and marshes, sometimes catch sight of deer in the distance. We pass the ruins of Ardvreck Castle and clouds finally let the sun filter as we give a break against the Stac Pollaidh.

The return to society is smooth with a stop in the town of Ullapool, we find very cute with its houses painted in white. We conduct a food supply and are pleased that in addition to free WC, the city also offers showers. A little further down the road we are disappointed not to observe Cataract Gorge Corrieshalloch, we walk on the trail but the suspension bridge is closed for maintenance, hiding our view of the falls crashing Measach 46 meters below. But our end of the day will be lit by a sunset basking places and our early night is in the sight of wild deer which we see the silhouette on the ridge of a mountain.

Cool morning, I'll make me a laundry in the river I hear turn into waterfall just a little further. We shall see when we take the direction of Gruinard Bay road. Every corner is a new sight for sore eyes, through Beinn Eighe Natural Reserve, the Wester Ross Coastal Trail – we have not crossed dragons .

We we give a break in the village of Shieldaig which in addition to its beautiful shoreline offers public toilets, before continuing our dizzying descent to the coast, crossing some local.

The look attracted by shadows of islands off, we stop in the open air to observe the road map closer. That's Skye, and the island of Rona offering us a splendid panorama. so typing, we braverons the wind to sleep there and enjoy the view until the last ray of sunshine.

Wednesday we attack the col between Applecross and Tornapress, on a road to one vote, surrounded by a mist turning into fog more we gain altitude. Each cross car is an adventure but we reach the top and veil dissipates descent for offering us new charming landscapes.

We go round Loch Carron to ride to the town of Kyle of Lochalsh where we take the short bridge Free, built between 1992 and 1995, leading to the Isle of Skye. After a late lunch we drive Broadfort to find a place that seemed to wait for us at the edge of a river going away in the undergrowth. A perfect place… for midges, these micro midges who like quills as moisture… and a priori the taste of human skin. Fortunately our cousins ​​have given us the trick and the miracle product : jojoba oil does not seem to taste.

The rain accompanied us for two days on Skye, with few cloudy, This does not prevent us to continue north and walk to the foot of the Old Man of Storr, a monolith 55 meters, “formed as a result of erosion of the mountain on which it is located, called Storr” tell us Wiki. On the way drizzle did not frighten us, in return she has transformed the way torrent and we are soaked.

After a stop at the Cliffs of Kilt Rock and impressive Mealt Waterfall flowing directly into the sea, is facing other cliffs that we spend the night. The next day, the sun makes timid appearances while we dévalons south, making a return to the village on the B8083 Elgol offering us a view of the Black Cuillin, massive culminating is an ancient volcano.

Back on the main island and stop in Glen Shiel for the night when a passerby decided to correct the story of the battle. Saturday morning, the clouds disappeared, it's so good that we play petanque under the astonished gaze of other tourists… oh no it is perhaps our laundry drying in the sun !

Here we are in Invermoriston, Back to square one. We sleep one last time beside Loch Ness before returning to Fort William. To change the Glen Coe valley we take the Argyle Coast Trail, go off Castle Stalker and make a detour to the lovely town of Oban. A little further, on a hike from parking lot, while we settle for the night, our neighbors backpackers and their three dogs come to greet us and offer us to have a drink at home. We spend a great evening with this couple from Cornwall, tasting the homemade beers – et gluten free.

 

Just a little anecdote about this bridge between the mainland and the Isle of Skye : 2003, a friend and I were in Scotland for a short stay. night Arriving at Kyle of Lochalsh, not learned not to sleep, a bus driver told us to get for it brings us to a hostel, we thought the ferry the next day that would carry us to the island.

The evening, before a good pint and live music, trois belges nous assurent que nous sommes DÉJÀ sur l’île, nous disons le contraire, mon ami étant sûr de lui, jusqu’à ce qu’ils nous montrent, sur toute la façade du pub, une énorme fresque décrivant la construction d’un pont… Le fameux ! Amen.